Instructions for Deciduous Cuttings

By Michael Greenstein

This  is a brief  description  of a  technique  to  make   cuttings  from
deciduous plants in leaf. It is intended for Northern California Climates,
but it can be adapted for other locations as well.  It will also work for
evergreen plants.

BASIC IDEA:

Use the zip lock bag to  control  moisture  loss  from the   leaf
surface, while the leaves continue to manufacture food and
stimulate growth.

TIMING:

Done in late spring to mid summer when new growth has hardened a
month or so. For maples, prunus, azaleas, ginko, juniper,...

REQUIRED MATERIAL:

a) course potting soil: with 1/8" sand or equivalent
b) small plastic pot 2"" or 4" liner
c) 1 Gallon zip lock bag (use a new bag)
d) two straws slightly shorter than the bag (from top to bottom)
e) root hormone (ROOTONE or equivalent)

PROCEDURE:

Take  first year  growth  that has  hardened ( one to two months
after  leafing  out).  Cut just  below a leaf  node.  Cut to two
leaf pairs, and  immediately  insert into water.  Prepare  moist
soil in pot.  I use 1 pot per cutting since I get ~80% yield and
this  saves me from later  transplanting.  Use a stick to make a
hole about 75% deep in the soil in the pot.  (not to the bottom,
leave  room  for  roots!)  Dip the wet  cutting  in the   hormone
powder  and tap off  excess.  Place the  cutting in the hole and
firm the soil around it.  Place the two support stick in the pot
at  opposite  side of the pot.  Place in the zip lock bag, spray
with mist and seal off.

Place  the  bag in a  mostly  shady  spot.  Under a tree   with a
little  filtered  light is  perfect.  Inspect  this bag once per
week for rot.  Remove any rot.  If the cutting looses all of its
leaves throw it out:  it probably will not take.

In about 3 months  (July  4th) the  cutting  should  have   roots
sticking  out of the bottom of the pot.  Now begins  the task of
hardening off.  Open the zip lock bag 1-2" per week for the next
4 weeks.  Leave the pot in the bag with a fully  opened  bag for
at least a week.  Water the  cutting  at least  every  other day
while the bag is open, but do not let the water  stand more than
a 1/4"  or so.  Once  the  cutting  is  out  of   the  bag  water
carefully and keep in the shade for the summer.

Cuttings often die in the winter from frost.  Protect by keeping
under a tree.  If a lot of the roots are  outside  the pot, bury
the pot in soil to protect the roots from freezing.

In spring,  protect  cuttings from snails.  Unlike mature trees,
one timely  snail will snuff out your  cutting, and all your hard
work.  Leave  the  cutting  in the  original  pot for a year   to
develop strength.  Fertilize with a balanced fertilizer.