SF Bay Area Suggestions 

By Mr. Umehara

September

Early Month

1.  Five Needle Pines (Shikoku and Miyajima variety)
a.  A grafted five-needle pine is stronger than ones started from seeds,
making it more durable in the area where the environment is different
from its native location.  Even though, the following instruction is for
the grafted trees, it only applies to the very healthy grafted trees. 
After the needles are fully opened on this year's candle, buds for two
candles will form.  Nipping these buds (strong one's only) will induce
yet more buds.  These buds will stay until spring; remove old needles at
the same time.
b.  Yatsubusa variety.  Removal of this year's second growth will induce
yet additional new buds.  However, these buds will not grow till next
spring.  In comparison to Kokonoe and the other Yatsubusa variety, the
Zuisho have stronger lower branches.  In order to balance the growing
power, remove less old needles from the crown area and more from the
lower area.  In other works. reverse the normal rules of needle reduction.
c.  Five-needle pines started from seedlings are not as strong as the
grafted ones.  So, it is preferred that the bud nipping be done only once
in the spring.  In the fall, just shape the trees.  Change the apex if
necessary; redirect branch tips if needed.

2.  Black Pine (exclude the pines in the needle shortening schedule).
a.  The trees must be in good health
b.  Cut off this year's growth at the base
c.  Remove old needles, removing more from the top area and less from
the lower area.  This is to balance the growing power and to induce new
buds. The buds will not grow till next spring, but this is a good way to
start new branches on your young developing trees.

3.  Fertilizer.  Autumn feeding should be applied generously.
a.  Flowering/fruit/berry trees:  Cake fertilizer with bone meal.
b.  Deciduous trees: 0-10-10

4.  Watering.  Adjust watering as the daylight becomes shorter.

5.  Sunlight.  The deciduous trees kept under semi-shaded area should
now be brought out gradually to full-sun exposure.

6.  Spray.  The pests such as red spider, caterpillar, looper, and
farias reseifoera (eats Satsuki buds), etc., will damage your trees. 
Don't forget to keep them under control.

Mid and Late Month

Mid-September through end of October is a good period to shape and
transplant varieties of trees.  Some of those are: black pine, red ping,
Nishiki-Matsu, Goyo-Matsu, cypress, redwood, yew, yezo-spruce, cedar,
shimpaku, maple, kaede, quince, sinensis, jasminum nudiflorum, crabapple,
cherry, plums, pyracanthus, hawthorne, and others.

7. Pinching,  Those trees you have been pinching all through the growing
season such as cryptomeria, needle juniper, shimpaku, and redwood trees,
receive the final pinching and shaping.

8.  Visit as many other club exhibitions as possible.  Not only good for
the friendship between the clubs, but will also help to improve one's own
trees.

9.  Karin (chaenomeles sinensis) and crabapple's branches that were
allowed to grow wildly, now must be cut back,  The first cut, take
two-thirds off; after all foliage has dropped and the tree is bare, cut
to the finished length and shape.