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SEASONAL SUGGESTIONS

A PERIOD OF AUTUMN TRANQUILITY

NO. 95 - SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER-2005

By Marty Mann

 

Now that the summer growing season has passed it’s time to observe your trees with their fall overcoat of gold, orange, yellow and green. The internal chemical changes and the cooler evenings produce these exotic colors.

This is not the time for any new training wire since the branches tend to lignify and swell dramatically during this season and cause severe wire cuts. The enjoyment of the fall colors lead to defoliation and the opportunity to study branch structure and its relationship to the main trunk line. Prune all brown leaves as they appear on deciduous material judiciously. The more you trim the elongated stems the shorter the in­ternodes and the greater the twiggyness. This is an opportune time to consider styling changes.

Fall is generally the climax of the luxurious growth of summer and the last spurt of activity before settling down for winter dormancy. Since recent growth may have added girth to branches and trunks it would be prudent to check out all wired branches to see if they are set and, if they are, the wires can be removed.

Assuming you have properly reduced the nitrogen feeding during the past few months you may be showing the beginning of fall colors on deciduous trees. Cooler nights and the effect of the Autumn Equinox, with the time of equal days and nights, add to this phenomenon. These last few months can still be used to strengthen your trees for the winter rest. They will build dormant buds and store food to produce healthy growth next spring. Continue to fertilize with little or no nitrogen, select plant foods that are high in potash and phosphorus. All winter growth generally goes into the liqnification of woody branches and trunks.

Light conditions begin to change. Trees that have had full sun exposure find themselves in more shade. Watch the location of trees at this time of year. Rotate them into more favorable light exposures. Allow them to continue storing strength and food for the winter. Late summer feeding, with reduced amounts of nitrogen, may be continued throughout the fall months into November. The recom­mended basic mix of 70% cottonseed meal, 30% bone meal may be supplemented with foliar feeding for evergreen, conifers and other non-deciduous material. Warm spells are common at this time and trees often respond with new growth. This tender growth is susceptible to damage if any sudden cool weather occurs.

Deciduous trees will begin to show fall colors as soon as cooler nights become more common. After they have had their moment of glory be sure to remove any brown leaves as they appear. Keep the trees free of accumulated trash that can house many undesirable wintering insects and encourage fungus buildup. Keep the trees open, light and airy.

This is the best time to study the main trunk line and branch structure. Consider style changes suggested when the skeleton of the tree could be seen. September and October can still be considered for repotting certain species of material such as bamboo, boxwood, junipers, conifers, citrus, cotoneaster, elm, gingko, hornbean, maples and privet. (Ref: BONSAI TECHNIQUES 1-By JOHN Y. NAKA.) Usually, potting is best done when trees begin their normal dormant period. Any activity after October should be limited to pot-to-pot transfers only. Wait until spring, just before new growth begins to do most repotting.

Expose pine trees and other conifers to full light during the forthcoming months. This encourages the formation of new candles and healthy root formation. Much of the new growth forms after the pines are de-candled early in May or June. New growth appears in clusters of three to five candles. Remove all but two. Pluck all old needles to free the tree from a dense foliage mass to permit light and air to penetrate into the heart of the tree and encourage new interior growth.

Wire cuts can occur during the next few months. While winter growth is limited during the dormancy period, the woody portion of the tree contin­ues to liquefy and harden. Be sure to check all wires on branches and around the trunk. Remove any tightening wire. This is a particularly good time to apply some new wire. The trees have shed the mantle of leaves that have hidden the branches. Now they are exposed for a proper redesign. Be careful when applying new wire since the branches are quite brittle when the sap is not circulating in the wood.

Keep most deciduous trees out of the bright sunshine, especially those that had been defoliated a few months ago and have new young leaves. Even as they mature and drop for natural fall defoliation, they are quite tender. Keep them cool and moist to prevent additional winter re-sprouting.

Pinching and pruning is still an important training requirement. Do not do any severe pruning however since the slow down of winter growth will not permit the tree to recover from any trauma. Pines should be trimmed by removing old, dead needles and reducing candle sizes. Trim all deciduous trees to remove long internodes of summer growth. Remove old hanging fruit and seedpods. If berries con­tinue to hang on they may be allowed to stay until spring since they do not drain any strength from the tree.

Cut back on your watering schedule but don’t allow the trees to dry. As the length of the day's sunshine is shortened, the trees require less water. A balance must be maintained between the minimal watering and the loss of moisture by transpiration during intermittent hot spells.

Continue to rotate all trees to maintain even exposure to the limited light conditions. This is the time for trees to store food for winter dor­mancy. It is also the time to keep trees free of accumulated trash. They could be the home for winterizing insects and fungus. Keep all trees open, airy and exposed to the light.

Keep up applications of an all-purpose insecticide and fungicide. Insect, such as aphids continue to suck sap and can be best controlled with an oily or systemic pesticide. Watch for signs of fungus infection such as dark spots on needles and leaves or a white powdery substance at the base of the leaves. Fungus infection can be prevented with applications of a cop­per based Bordeaux® or Daconil® is effective for above ground infections.

POSTSCRIPT:

You don’t stop laughing because you grow old. You grow old because you stop laughing. Have an awesome day, and know that someone has thought about you today.

Marty Mann

this article has been extracted from a soon-to-be published book called ‘ bonsai ideas’®. material is not to be copied without PUBLISHER OR Author's permission.

September 2005

 

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