SEASONAL SUGGESTIONS

THE QUIET OF AUTUMN

NO. 101 - SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER, 2006

By Marty Mann

Fall is generally the climax of the luxurious growth of summer and the last spurt of activity before settling down for winter dormancy.
Your bonsai will no longer be growing very much so the need for extensive pruning may be minimal. Since recent growth may have added girth to branches and trunks it would be prudent to check out all wired branches to see if they are set and, if they are, the wires can be removed.

Assuming you have properly reduced the nitrogen feeding during the past few months you may be showing the beginning of fall colors on deciduous trees. Cooler nights and the effect of the Autumn Equinox, with the time of equal days and nights, will add to this phenomenon.
These last few months can still be used to strengthen your trees for the winter rest. They will build dormant buds and store food to produce healthy growth next spring. Continue to fertilize with little or no nitrogen, select plant foods that are high in potash and phosphorus. All winter growth generally goes into the liqnification of woody branches and trunks.

Fall is an excellent time to gather tree seeds as they ripen. Oak tree acorns, Pine tree cones and varieties of Maples are in profusion
- an excellent source for over wintering in your refrigeration for stratification. They may then be planted in early spring for new nursery seedlings and future training stock.

Fall is generally the climax of the luxurious growth of summer and the last spurt of activity before settling down for winter dormancy.
Your bonsai will no longer be growing very much so the need for extensive pruning may be minimal. Since recent growth may have added girth to branches and trunks it would be prudent to check out all wired branches to see if they are set and, if they are, the wires can be removed.

Fall is an excellent time to gather tree seeds as they ripen. Oak tree acorns, Pine tree cones and varieties of Maples are in profusion. They may then be planted in early spring for new nursery seedlings and future training stock. Survey the forests and parks in your area to search for clusters of seeds or seed balls. Gather these and plant them in a suitable sandy mix. Maintain the seed flats in a cool, slightly moist, condition in anticipation of their development in the spring. Not all seeds are treated in the same manner. Some require stratification for a period of time in a cool atmosphere
(refrigerator) to induce dormancy before planting. Seeds may be maintained in this condition until you are ready to sow them in the spring. Do some research.

There is still time to give your bonsai a last good feeding during the fall months. Continue using a fertilizer with little or no nitrogen. Rely on a formula that is high in potash and phosphorus.
Most fruiting and flowering bonsai will benefit from this type of mixture. Specifically, azaleas, crabapples, umes and pomegranates will improve after these late feed ings. The changing colors on the deciduous trees tell you that the growing season is over. Fall foliage greatly enhances the beauty of the trees at this time of year. Concentrate on the Liquidambers, Maples, Gingkos, Hornbeans and Zelcova for the best colors.

Cut back on your watering schedule but do not allow the trees to dry out. As the length of the day's sunshine is shortened the trees require less water. A balance must be maintained between the minimal watering and the loss of moisture by transpiration during intermittent hot spells.

Cuttings taken at this time of year should not be seriously considered. Fall is a poor time for this activity since the cool weather inhibits any possible root development. Wait until new spring growth begins on most trees for better cutting material.

This is a good time to study the main trunk lines and branch structures of your trees. Restyling and general design features can be observed and corrected. Watch for crossing branches or the formations of multiple apex leaders. Reduce the length of long internodes and other heavy branch clusters that tend to make a small tree become to dense and heavy. Be particularly attentive to the formation of heavy branches at the top portion of trees where faster growth often occurs. These should be cut out to maintain a proper symmetrical design and better taper of the trunk lines.

As trees approach the cooler nights and signs of complete defoliation begin, you may remove the brown leaves and the remaining dried fruit and flowers. Note the twiggyness of the branch structure of Elms, Maples and other deciduous trees. Wherever you see a cluster of twigs your aim should be a cut back to pairs of twigs forming a "V" to encourage the spring formation of new branch divisions.Marty Mann